28e Cahier, 22e Suite, DD.163
Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 28e Cahier de Costumes Français. 22e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode, en 1780. DD.163
ca. 1780
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Nicholas Dupin (French, act. 1776–89)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio
The Lévite
A lightweight gown tied at the waist with a sash, the lévite was inspired by Ottoman kaftans and by the costumes of actresses playing Jewish priestesses in eighteenth-century performances of Jean Racine's biblical play Athalie. The lévite was favored by Marie Antoinette during her pregnancy, and the style at one point made up a significant portion of her wardrobe.
Inscription
English: "Lévite-style gown decorated with tassels, epaulettes and cords: the matching skirt is edged with a band of a different color, blonde lace around the lévite and along both edges of the skirt trimming. The hat is made of white gauze, and adorned with a black gauze pouf, encircled with black lace and a colored ribbon."
French: "Habit en Lévite enrichi de glands, d'epauletes et cordonets: la juppe parielle bordée d'une bande de différente couleur, une blonde autour du Lévite et aux deux bords de la garniture du juppon. Le chapeau de gaze blanche, et garni en pouf de gaze noire, ceint de dentelle noire et d'un ruban de couleur."