The Queen of Fashion

A style icon and a symbol of excess, the French queen Marie Antoinette (1755–1793) remains one of the most influential figures in fashion history. Working closely with her hairdressers and dressmakers, she shaped the decadent and provocative aesthetic of her time with ruffled concoctions and outrageous hairdos. Her style was widely imitated by women across Europe and helped drive innovation and growth of the fashion industry. She was, however, also vilified for her lavish spending on fashion and so many other things. This contributed to her public disgrace and ultimate downfall during the revolution. One print depicts the queen (as identified by her coat of arms on the chair) in a formal court gown with a wide skirt exaggerated by panniers (hooped undergarments), as well as a diamond aigrette securing the ostrich feathers on her headdress, which was also depicted in her 1775 portrait by Jean-Baptiste André Gautier-Dagoty. Another image shows an informal daywear style that Marie Antoinette popularized, a white muslin gown called a chemise à la reine (the queen's chemise). She wore such a chemise in a 1783 portrait by Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun that was later removed from the Paris Salon on the charge that it presented the queen too informally for public display.

Fashion plate showing a woman in a red dress.

Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 14e Cahier des Costumes Français. 8e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode. O.80
ca. 1778
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Charles Emmanuel (Jean Baptiste) Patas (French, Paris 1744–1802)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio

 

Court Splendor
The rigid formality and antiquated design of the habit or robe de cour (court dress) evoked the splendor of Louis XIV's reign in the seventeenth century, when the style first flourished. Featuring a boned bodice, exaggerated panniers (hoop-like undergarments), and luxurious materials, this example worn by Marie Antoinette (identified by her royal crest on the chair) served as a symbol of status and power.

Inscription
English: "Habit de cour of cherry satin, the head ribbon of the same fabric, the gauze visible at the righthand corner is black, the diamonds, pearls, and ribbon around the neckline are white, as are the tassels of the draped mantle, the lace in certain areas takes on a bit of the fabric color, the armchair is made with violet fabric, and the coat of arms is shown according to its proper enamels [heraldic colors], all the rest is in gold; the foot rug is multicolored."

French: "Habit de Cour de Satin Cerise, le ruban de tête de même, le coin de gaze qui se voit au côte droit est noir, les diamants, perles et ruban du tour de gorge blancs, ainsi que les glands du manteau troussé, les dentelles tirent un peu dans certaine partie sur la teinte du sond, le fond du sauteuil violet, et les armes selon leurs émaux, tout le reste or; le tapis de pied de toutes couleurs."

Fashion plate showing a woman in a white dress.

Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 41e Cahier de Costumes Français. 36e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode, en 1784. XX.262
ca. 1784
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Nicholas Dupin (French, act. 1776–89)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio

 

The Queen's Chemise
Chemise à la Reine (the queen's chemise) is a type of informal dress popularized by Marie Antoinette. The one-piece white muslin gown, worn in the summer for comfort and ease of movement, originated from the lightweight garments worn by European women and free women of color in the French Caribbean colonies, designed to withstand the tropical climate.

Inscription
English: "Chemise à la Reine seen from behind. This woman has a kerchief-mantle on her shoulders, she is wearing a flat hat topped with a feather, her hair is half made up with two ponytails, the belt is made of black velvet."

French: "Chemise à la Reine vue par derriere. Cette femme a sur les épaules un fichu-mantelet, elle est coëffé d'un chapeau plat surmonté d'une plume, les cheveux en négligé et deux catogans, la cinture est de velour noir."