37e Cahier, 29e Suite, NN.211

Fashion plate showing a woman in a black dress.

Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 37e Cahier des Costumes Français. 29e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode, en 1781. NN.211
ca. 1781
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Nicholas Dupin (French, act. 1776–89)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio

 

Muted Elegance
After the death of a royal, the whole nation was expected to observe the grand deuil de cour (full-court mourning)—a mandated mourning dress code—for up to a year (depending on the rank of the deceased). During that time, no colors or jewelry could be worn. This dress code had three stages. Initially, one must wear non-reflective black clothes of wool or poplin for several months (as shown here). This was to be followed by clothes of black silk or satin. The final stage was one of half-mourning wherein black and white garments were allowed.

Inscription
English: "Dress fitted for grand deuil de cour and tied headdress. Following the etiquette the dress is made of raz de Saint-Maur fabric trimmed with gauze drapery ornamented with ribbons over ruffled crepe fabric."

French: "Grand deuil de Cour ajusté et la Coëfe nouée Selon l'etiquette la robbe est de Raz de S. Maur garnie de Gaze en draperie nouée de rubans sur un fond de Crêpe bouilloné."