37e Cahier, 29e Suite, NN.212
Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 37e Cahier des Costumes Français. 29e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode, en 1781. NN.212
ca. 1781
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Etienne Claude Voysard (French, Paris 1746–1812)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio
Man in Black
Guidelines for appropriate mourning attire for members of society at various removes from the royal family were continually updated in journals and almanacs, making mourning a major sartorial event. Men were required to wear black ensembles made of wool during the first stage of full court mourning (as shown here), in addition to pleureuses (literally, mourners)—bands of white linen or cambric—around their sleeve cuffs, as well as strips of black crepe fabric around their hats and swords.
Inscription
English: "Grand deuïl de cour, large pleureuse and tie, woolen stockings, black sword and buckles, crepe fabric on the hat and the sword."
French: "Grand Deuïl de Cour, grand pleureuse et cravate, bas de laine, épéc et boucles noires, crêpe au Chapeau et à l'épée."