37e Cahier, 29e Suite, NN.216
Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 37e Cahier des Costumes Français. 29e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode, en 1781. NN.216
ca. 1781
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Nicholas Dupin (French, act. 1776–89)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
The Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio
A Vision in Emine
The death of Empress Maria Theresa on November 29, 1780, was followed by six months of court mourning. Working within the confines of mourning etiquette, dressmakers created black and white clothes with fashionable cuts and luxurious trimmings for the half-mourning stage in the cold months, such as this lévite-style coat decked out in ermine fur.
Inscription
English: "Lévite-style pelisse with ornaments and collar trimmed with ermine; petticoat of white satin with black dots; muff of the same satin trimmed with bands of ermine and the belt is also made of ermine. The pouf is topped with cambric flowers and feathers. This gown was worn by a lady of quality during the mourning for Maria Theresa of Austria, mother of the [Austrian] Emperor and the Queen of France."
French: "Lévite pelisse à parement et Colet garni d'hermine le jupon de Satin blanc à poix noir le manchon de même garni de bandes d'hermine et la Ceinture aussi d'hermine, le Pouf surmounté de fleurs de batiste et de plumes. Cette Robe a été portée par une Dame de qualité pendant le Deuïl de M. Thérèse d'Autriche mere de l'Empereur et de la Reine de France."