14e Cahier, 8e Suite, O.80
Gallerie des modes et costumes français. 14e Cahier des Costumes Français. 8e Suite d'Habillemens à la mode. O.80
ca. 1778
Designed by Pierre-Thomas Le Clerc (French, Paris 1740–1796); engraved by Charles Emmanuel (Jean Baptiste) Patas (French, Paris 1744–1802)
Hand-colored engraving
Approx. 11 1/2 × 17 in. (29.2 × 43.2 cm)
Frick Art Research Library; Gift of Melinda Martin Sullivan, 2016
Image Frick Digital Studio
Court Splendor
The rigid formality and antiquated design of the habit or robe de cour (court dress) evoked the splendor of Louis XIV's reign in the seventeenth century, when the style first flourished. Featuring a boned bodice, exaggerated panniers (hoop-like undergarments), and luxurious materials, this example worn by Marie Antoinette (identified by her royal crest on the chair) served as a symbol of status and power.
Inscription
English: "Habit de cour of cherry satin, the head ribbon of the same fabric, the gauze visible at the righthand corner is black, the diamonds, pearls, and ribbon around the neckline are white, as are the tassels of the draped mantle, the lace in certain areas takes on a bit of the fabric color, the armchair is made with violet fabric, and the coat of arms is shown according to its proper enamels [heraldic colors], all the rest is in gold; the foot rug is multicolored."
French: "Habit de Cour de Satin Cerise, le ruban de tête de même, le coin de gaze qui se voit au côte droit est noir, les diamants, perles et ruban du tour de gorge blancs, ainsi que les glands du manteau troussé, les dentelles tirent un peu dans certaine partie sur la teinte du sond, le fond du sauteuil violet, et les armes selon leurs émaux, tout le reste or; le tapis de pied de toutes couleurs."